I still remember the first time I walked down to Biarritz’s main beach, La Grande Plage. It wasn’t just the sight of the wide, curving bay framed by elegant old buildings that struck me. It was the feeling. There was a tangible buzz in the air a mix of relaxed surfers carrying boards, families setting up picnics, and a whiff of saltwater and sunscreen. But layered underneath that holiday vibe was something else: a deep sense of history and a unique, proud culture that feels entirely its own. This isn’t just another French beach town. This is Biarritz, the “Queen of the Basque Coast,” and it has been captivating visitors for over 150 years.
Let’s get one thing straight from the start. People often ask, “Is Biarritz just a posh resort?” Well, yes and no. It has undeniable glamour, born from its 19th-century transformation under Empress Eugénie. You’ll see grand villas and luxury hotels. But scratch the surface, and you find a resilient fishing town with a surfer’s heart and a fiercely independent Basque spirit. This blend is what makes it so special. You can enjoy a fine dining meal in the evening and grab a crispy, hot beignet (donut) from a market stall in the morning. You can admire a palace and then watch a local game of pelota against a wall in the village square. This guide is my attempt to help you experience the real, multifaceted Biarritz.
A Stroll Through History: From Whales to Royals
To understand Biarritz, you have to know a bit of its story. For centuries, it was a quiet whaling and fishing village. Its fortune changed forever in 1854 when Empress Eugénie, the wife of Napoleon III, convinced her husband to build a summer palace here, drawn by the dramatic coastline and mild climate. The Villa Eugénie, now the iconic Hôtel du Palais, put Biarritz on the map for European royalty and aristocracy. Suddenly, everyone who was anyone had to be seen here.
This imperial seal of approval shaped the town. Grand boulevards were laid, Moorish-style villas with colorful shutters sprang up, and a casino was built. While the aristocratic craze eventually faded, it left Biarritz with an elegant architectural skeleton and a reputation for refined leisure. The next great wave of popularity came in the 1950s and 60s, not with kings, but with surfers. American screenwriter Peter Viertel, while here filming, had a surfboard shipped over and rode the waves of La Grande Plage. He sparked a revolution. Today, Biarritz is considered the birthplace of European surfing, balancing its imperial past with a thoroughly laid-back, athletic present.
Experiences You Simply Can’t Miss in Biarritz
You could easily fill a week here, but if you’re short on time, these are the experiences that capture the town’s essence.
First, walk the coastal path. Start at the northern end of the main beach and follow the sentier du littoral. You’ll pass the iconic Rocher de la Vierge (Rock of the Virgin), a stunning outcrop reached by a metal footbridge, offering panoramic views. This walk, with the Atlantic crashing below, is completely free and utterly unforgettable.
Second, immerse yourself in the surf culture. Even if you have no intention of riding a wave, head to Plage de la Côte des Basques. This is where it all began. Grab a bench on the cliff top and just watch. You’ll see experts weaving through the green waves and beginners taking their first shaky lessons. The respect everyone has for the ocean here is palpable.
Third, explore the Les Halles market. This isn’t just for tourists; it’s where locals shop. The energy, the colors, the smells! You’ll see towers of piment d’Espelette (local red pepper), mountains of oysters from Arcachon, and countless varieties of local ham and cheese. Have a coffee at the bar inside and just soak it in.
Fourth, visit the Hôtel du Palais. You don’t need to stay the night (though if you can, it’s an experience!). Pop in for a drink at the bar or simply stroll through the gardens. Standing there, you can almost hear the rustle of silk gowns from a century ago.
Finally, witness a sunset from the Port des Pêcheurs (Fishermen’s Port). Tucked below the lighthouse, this tiny, colorful port with its traditional Basque boats brings you back to the town’s humble origins. The orange glow over the wooden txalupas (boats) is pure magic.
A Food Lover’s Tour of Basque Country
The food in Biarritz is a highlight in itself, a delicious gateway to Basque culture. Forget delicate French portions; here, food is hearty, shared, and full of flavor.
Start with pintxos. These are small snacks, similar to tapas, skewered with a toothpick. The best way to experience them is to go to a bar in the old quarters, grab a plate, and just help yourself from the counter. Each one is a bite-sized masterpiece. You’ll pay by counting your toothpicks at the end.
For a main dish, you must try axoa. It’s a simple, comforting stew of veal or lamb with peppers and onions, generously seasoned with piment d’Espelette. It tastes like home cooking, in the best possible way. Of course, seafood is king here. Fresh tuna, sardines grilled over an open fire, and moules (mussels) are everywhere and always superb.
Save room for cheese (Ossau-Iraty, a sheep’s milk cheese, is divine) and dessert. You cannot leave without trying gateau basque. It’s a buttery, shortcrust pastry typically filled with either vanilla pastry cream or black cherry jam. I’m team cream, but you’ll have to decide for yourself!
Where to Stay: Finding Your Perfect Base
Biarritz is compact, so you can’t go too wrong, but different areas have different personalities.
-
For First-Timers & Luxury Seekers: Stay near La Grande Plage or the Hôtel du Palais. You’ll be in the heart of the action, close to grand cafes, shopping, and that iconic beachfront.
-
For Surfers & the Free-Spirited: The Port Vieux (Old Port) and areas near Plage de la Côte des Basques are your zones. It’s more bohemian, filled with surf shops, casual eateries, and a youthful energy.
-
For Families & a Local Feel: Look at neighborhoods like Saint-Charles or BAB (Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne). You might be a 15-minute walk from the main beach, but you’ll find more space, quieter streets, and lower prices.
Practical Tips for Your Trip
-
Getting There: The Biarritz Pays Basque Airport has connections across Europe. The TGV train from Paris is a scenic and comfortable 4-5 hour journey. I personally love the train ride as you watch the landscape change.
-
Getting Around: The town is very walkable. For beaches further afield or day trips, the local bus network (Chronoplus) is excellent and cheap. Bikes are also a great way to get around.
-
When to Go: This is crucial. The summer (July-August) is buzzing but crowded and expensive. For me, the sweet spots are May-June and September. The weather is still lovely, the water is warming up (for surfers), and you can actually get a table at a restaurant. The surf season kicks into high gear in autumn with bigger waves.
-
Is it Expensive? Honestly, it can be. But it doesn’t have to break the bank. Avoid the seafront restaurants for every meal. Eat pintxos for lunch, have a picnic from the market, and use public transport. The best things—the coastal walks, the beach, the people-watching—are free.
Venturing Beyond: Two Perfect Day Trips
Biarritz is a perfect launchpad. Two trips I always recommend:
-
Saint Jean de Luz & La Rhune: Drive 20 minutes south to the charming, more traditional fishing port of Saint Jean de Luz. Then, take the little rack railway up La Rhune mountain. The 360-degree views from the top over the Basque coast, stretching all the way to Spain, will leave you speechless.
-
San Sebastián, Spain: Yes, you can pop into another country! It’s just an hour’s drive. The contrast is fascinating. San Sebastián is another pintxos paradise with a breathtaking urban beach, La Concha. It’s incredible to experience two distinct cultures on the same coastline in one day.
Conclusion
Biarritz has a rare and wonderful duality. It’s a place where you can feel the ghosts of emperors in a palace hallway and hear the shouts of surfers catching the next wave just minutes later. It’s where you can dress up for a night at the casino or spend the whole day in board shorts. This blend of history, sport, Basque identity, and natural beauty is what gets under your skin. It’s more than a destination; it’s a feeling. A feeling of being somewhere truly unique, where the mountains meet the sea, and tradition rides the modern wave. Give yourself the time to explore beyond the main beach, talk to the locals, try the food, and you’ll discover why so many people, myself included, leave a piece of their heart here.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is the best time of year to visit Biarritz for surfing?
A: It depends on your level. For beginners, late spring through early autumn (May to October) offers smaller, more manageable waves and warmer water and air temperatures. For experienced surfers seeking bigger swells, the winter months (November to March) are prime, though you’ll need a good wetsuit as the water gets chilly.
Q: Is Biarritz suitable for a family holiday?
A: Absolutely. Many beaches, like Plage du Port Vieux, are sheltered and great for paddling. There are family-friendly attractions like the Aquarium de Biarritz, the Musée de la Mer, and easy coastal walks. The town is safe, stroller-friendly, and has plenty of ice cream shops to keep everyone happy.
Q: How many days should I spend in Biarritz?
A: I recommend a minimum of three full days. This gives you one day to explore the town center and main beaches, one day to dive into surf culture or a coastal walk, and one day for a day trip (like to San Sebastián or a Basque village). A week allows for a truly relaxed and deep exploration.
Q: Do I need to speak French or Basque?
A: Not at all. In the tourist areas, most people in hotels and restaurants speak English. However, learning a few basic French phrases like “Bonjour” (hello), “Merci” (thank you), and “S’il vous plaît” (please) is always appreciated and shows respect for the local culture. Hearing Basque (Euskara) on street signs and in conversations is part of the charm.
Q: What should I pack for a trip to Biarritz?
A: Think layers! Even in summer, evenings can be cool with the ocean breeze. Essentials include: a windbreaker/light jacket, comfortable walking shoes (for cliffs and cobblestones), swimwear, sunscreen (the Atlantic sun is strong), a hat, and of course, if you’re surfing, your gear (though everything can be rented easily).
Read Also: Living in Kilburn, London: An Honest 2024 Area Guide for Renters, Buyers & the Curious
